Alex MacIntyre was one of the legendary early-1970s Leeds University climbers noted for their big hair, Lycra tights and habit of calling one another ‘youth’. A popular climber, he was a leading figure in alpine climbing’s ‘front-point revolution’ in the 1970s, when a group of British climbers pushed standards dramatically higher, climbing hard and difficult routes in a light and fast alpine style. With a glittering record of firsts in the Alps and Andes, MacIntyre was a great supporter of alpine-style ethi, pushing the style into the Himalaya, where he made ascents and attempts on major objectives – such as Shishapangma – and hard new routes on giants like Dhaulagiri and Changabang. MacIntyre died on Annapurna in 1982 aged only twenty-eight years old. He and René Ghilini were retreating from an attempt on the south face when a solitary falling stone struck him square on the head and knocked him down 800 feet. A memorial stone at Annapurna Base Camp reads: ‘Better to live one day as a tiger than to live for a thousand years as a sheep.’ John Porter’s award-winning book One Day as a Tiger (Vertebrate Publishing, 2014) is both a memoir of Alex, and of this golden period of British alpinism.
In 1982, following the relaxation of access restrictions to Tibet, six climbers set off for the Himalaya to explore the little-known Shishapangma massif in Tibet. Dealing with a chaotic build-up and bureaucratic obstacles so huge they verged on comical, the mountaineers gained access...
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