Jim Kempton is the award-winning former editor in chief of SURFER magazine. He is the author of three books, the including First We Surf, Then We Eat and Surfing: The Manual. Currently, he is the President of the California Surf Museum and served as project director for a 70-foot surf exploration vessel, the Indies Trader, which traversed the globe in search of new wave discoveries while mapping the location and health of the world’s reefs.
A captivating look at two centuries of surfing—"the Sport of Queens"—from Native Hawaiian royalty to the breakout style and jaw-dropping feats on the waves today.Few subjects in the world of sports and or the outdoors is more timely or compelling than women’s surfing. From smart,...
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